Hello everyone! I drafted this pattern for a bust size of 92 cm (36 in) and used Cotton Lycra for this project. The pattern and printing instructions can be downloaded here. It might be a good idea to read the blog post on cutting and sewing stretch fabrics. You will need about 1 m (1 …
This type of facing is used to finish the neckline and armholes of sleeveless garments. Cut the garment and facing pieces out. Apply interfacing to the wrong side of the front and back facing pieces. Neaten the raw edges with overlocking. Pin and stitch the shoulders of the front and back facing pieces, right …
Rolled collars stand up at a certain height, then roll over onto the garment. Examples of rolled collars are some shirt collars, shawl collars, and notched-tailored collars of jackets and coats. I used lightweight cotton for this sample and lightweight fusible interfacing. Constructing the collar Apply lightweight fusible interfacing to the wrong side of both …
How To Attach A Rolled Collar (Convertible Collar) Read More »
The sleeve should be cut with extra space to allow room for pleats or gathers. Prepare the sleeve with a continuous bound cuff placket. Add two pleats on the wrist line, facing in the same direction as the placket overlap. Press. Pin and stitch the underarm sleeve seam, right sides together. Press. Constructing a …
Mark the placket opening on the back section of the sleeve. Staystitch the marked seamline, using a shorter stitch on each side of the placket point. Start at the bottom edge of the marked placket opening, 6 mm (¼ in) on each side of the centre. Slash in the centre up to the point, without cutting …
Front hip pockets come in different shapes and are all attached to a garment at the waistline and side seams. The pocket opening edge can be understitched or topstitched. Constructing the pocket Apply a strip of fusible tape or interfacing on the wrong side of the garment along the pocket opening. Cut …
This is one of a few methods I use to apply a fly-front zipper. I used lightweight fabric for this sample, so it is best to interface the right front fly extension (facing). Applying the zipper Cut the trouser panels out. Trim the left front fly extension, ensuring that it measures 1.5 cm from the …
Pleats are formed when the fabric is folded onto itself. It can be formed from either the right side or the wrong side of the fabric. The most commonly used pleats are the box pleat, knife pleat, and inverted pleat. Pleats may occur as a single pleat, as a cluster of pleats, or around an …
The length of a waistband should equal the waistline measurement plus the desired amount of ease, plus an extra amount when an underlap or overlap extension is required, plus 1.5 cm (⅝ in) seam allowances. The width should be twice the desired finished width plus seam allowances. The waistband can be cut on the straight …
Flounces can be added to a garment along the hemline, armholes, necklines, and seams and can be added as a peplum on the edge of a jacket or top. Even though flounces and frills are not to everyone’s liking, it is still good to know how they are drafted. Flounces are drafted circularly, while a …