How To Apply A Straight Waistband

The length of a waistband should equal the waistline measurement plus the desired amount of ease, plus an extra amount when an underlap or overlap extension is required, plus 1.5 cm (⅝ in) seam allowances.  The width should be twice the desired finished width plus seam allowances.  The waistband can be cut on the straight or crosswise grain.  Cutting the length of the waistband on the lengthwise grain will give the greatest amount of stability.

 

Applying the waistband

Interface the waistband with suitable interfacing.  Cut the interfacing without seam allowances to reduce bulk at the waistline. The interfacing can be woven, nonwoven, sew-in, or perforated waistband interfacing.  Mark (notch) the foldline, centre front, centre back, side seams, and extension on the waistband. Neaten one long end with overlocking.  Fold the waistband in half lengthwise, with the wrong sides together.  Lightly press the foldline.

With the right sides together, pin and stitch the marked edge of the waistband to the garment, matching notches.  Press the seam flat.

 

Grade the seam allowances and press it up towards the waistband.

 

Fold the waistband along the foldline, right sides together.  Stitch the ends and the bottom of the extension.  Trim the seam allowances and corners.  Turn the waistband to the right side.

 

Press the waistband facing to the inside along the foldline.  Pin or tack the free edge of the waistband in place.  From the right side of the garment, stitch inside the waistline seam (stitch in the ditch).  For an alternative method, the seam allowance of the free edge can be folded under and slipstitched around the waist seamline.

 

Sew your choice of fasteners on.

 

 

 

 

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