Rolled collars stand up at a certain height, then roll over onto the garment. Examples of rolled collars are some shirt collars, shawl collars, and notched-tailored collars of jackets and coats.
I used lightweight cotton for this sample and lightweight fusible interfacing.
Constructing the collar
Apply lightweight fusible interfacing to the wrong side of both collar pieces.
Pin the collar pieces right sides together and stitch across the outer edge, using a 1 cm (⅜ in) seam allowance. Press. Trim and grade the seam allowance. Press the seam allowance open.
Understitch the seam allowance to the under collar, starting 4 cm (1 ½ in) in from both side edges. Press the seam.
Fold the collar side edges right sides together, pin, and stitch across both side edges.
Trim and grade the seam allowances, and trim across both corners.
Turn the collar to the right side and push the corners out with a point turner. Press the collar.
Attaching the collar
Apply lightweight fusible interfacing to the front facings. Neaten the garment’s front and back shoulder seams, side seams, and the outer edges of the facing with overlocking.
Pin and stitch the front panels to the back at the shoulders, right sides together. Press the seam allowance open. Staystitch the neckline just inside the 1 cm (⅜ in) seam allowance. Clip into the seam allowance.
Pin the under collar to the neckline, right sides together, matching the centre front, centre back, and shoulder notches, while keeping the upper collar out of the way. Stitch the under collar to the neckline from one shoulder notch, across the back neck, to the other shoulder notch.
Press the facing shoulder seam allowance to the wrong side. Fold the facing over the collar, pin it, and stitch it in place up to the shoulder seamline. Repeat on the other side. Clip the upper collar seam allowance at both shoulder seamlines. Trim and grade the seam allowances. Trim across both front corners. Clip into all seam allowances at both shoulders.
Press the back neck seam allowance up, towards the collar. Place the upper collar foldline and the shoulder facing slightly over the seamline, and tack in place. The back neck can be edgestitched and the facing can be slipstitched to the shoulder seam allowance, or the back neck and facing can be secured from the right side using the “stitch in the ditch” method.
Stitching in the ditch is when you stitch directly into a seamline from the right side of the garment.
