Cutting out stretch fabrics:
Stretch fabrics with a pile, such as towelling and velour, should be cut with all the pattern pieces laid in the same direction; otherwise, the garment will have a shaded effect once made up. Take care to follow the pattern layout. The maximum give is across the width of the fabric. To judge the correct pattern positioning, check the design of the fabric first.
Fold the fabric right sides together, especially when using pile fabrics, as the pile holds the layers together during cutting. It is also easier to work on the smooth, knitted side.
If using striped or checked stretch fabric, make sure the pattern matches both layers of fabric.
Support the fabric on a table while pinning and cutting it out to prevent it from stretching out of shape. If there is too much fabric to fit on the cutting table, then the excess fabric can be supported on a chair.
Pin the fabric with ballpoint pins, which are designed especially for knitted fabrics. They penetrate between the knitted loops, while ordinary pins break the fibres, causing the fabric to run. Plastic sewing clips are another great option to hold delicate fabric layers together.
Use long-bladed, sharp shears with serrated edges. These stop the fabric layers from slipping. Rotary cutters also work great on stretch fabrics, but do use a cutting mat when using a rotary cutter. Pin the pattern to double fabric layers, but cut each layer separately to prevent the lower layer from being smaller than the upper layer.
Mark the fabric on the wrong side with tailor’s chalk or fabric marking pencils.
Sewing stretch fabrics:
Sewing with stretch fabric involves introducing stretch into all the stitching processes to prevent seams from bursting open. It is best to use stretch needles or ballpoint needles on all knitted fabrics. Zigzag or stretch stitches must be used to sew stretch (knit) fabrics. A 4 mm stretch twin needle can be used to finish the hems for a nice professional look. Seams in activewear and swimwear must be sewn entirely using four-thread or five-thread overlocking.
Stitches to use:
Use a narrow/shallow zigzag stitch (1-1.5 wide x 2-2.5 long) while stretching the fabric slightly as you sew.
Modern sewing machines have a special stretch stitch. Although a zigzag or a stretch stitch is preferable, a straight machine stitch may be used while stretching the fabric as you sew.
Sewing thread to use:
Floss/Acafil nylon sewing thread and good-quality polyester sewing thread may be used when sewing stretch fabrics. Floss nylon sewing thread is ideal for sewing underwear and swimwear.
Finishing raw edges:
Bindings, welts, and cuffs used to finish stretch garments have to be flexible so that they slip over heads, hands, and feet easily. Apply elastic or ribbed bands, or make casings for drawstrings at waistlines and cuffs.
Bindings made from bias strips or woven fabrics are useful for necklines and armholes. Apply binding in the normal manner, and always stretch slightly as you sew.
Have a great week!