Three Ways To Finish Necklines and Armholes With Bias Binding

A neckline or armhole edge can be finished off neatly with a strip of matching or contrasting fabric. In this post, I share three of many ways to finish a raw edge on necklines and armholes. All three methods are suitable for necklines or armholes. You can also read my post How To Make Bias Binding and Application Tutorial first. All my samples were made with woven cotton fabric and I also made my own bias binding for this post.  I cut 4 cm (1 1/2 in) wide strips to make binding for these samples.  You can decide which method suits you best and if you would like to make your own binding or use ready-made.

Method One - Binding A Neckline

Cut a required length of binding.

With right sides together, pin the binding to the neck edge while stretching the binding slightly. Start pinning from the shoulder seam and end at the shoulder seam.

To join the binding, pin the ends of binding right sides together and machine stitch across. Trim the ends and press the seam allowance open.

Stitch the binding to the neckline.

Fold the binding over to the wrong side without trimming the seamline and pin/tack in place. Slipstitch the folded edge to the garment along the entire neck seamline. Press the garment.



Method Two - Binding an Armhole

Make or buy bias binding and cut it to a required length. Press the binding fold slightly off-centre.

Shape the binding for an inward curve by pressing it with a steam iron, while stretching the open edge and easing the folded edge by hand. The shaping only makes it easier to apply binding to a curved edge.

Tack the shaped binding around the armhole edge starting at the underarm seam, while keeping the wider edge of the binding on the wrong side of the garment.  Place the starting end 1 cm (1/2 in) ahead of the garment underarm seam.  Fold the end 1 cm under and in line with the garment underarm seam.  Complete the tacking.

Topstitch along the outer edge of the binding and on the right side of the garment.


Method Three - Binding an Armhole

In this method, the binding is sewn to the inside of the armhole and is not visible on the outside.

With right sides together, pin the binding to the armhole edge, lining the end of the binding up with the underarm seam of the garment.

Stitch across the binding seam and trim the ends as illustrated in method one. Press the seam open.

Machine stitch the binding to the armhole by stitching inside the pressed crease.

Trim the seam allowances to avoid a bulky seam.

Fold the binding over to the inside of the garment, encasing the raw edges. Press and tack in place.

Stitch along the edge of the binding on the wrong side of the garment. Press.

The binding is hidden inside the garment.

The binding is not visible on the right side of the garment.

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