Today I am sharing a tutorial for a sports bra, but the same pattern can be used for a lace or cotton lycra crop top. The elastic casing can also be omitted and elastic can be sewn directly to the under bust seam allowance. It might also be a good idea to read my post on Cutting and Sewing Stretch Fabric.
Straight stitch length 3,5 to 4
Three thread overlocking
Four thread overlocking
Cut the front and back panels out.
With right sides together, pin and stitch the front and back shoulder seams together with 4 thread overlocker.
With right sides together, pin and stitch the side seams of back and front together with 4 thread overlocker.
Pin the casing panels right sides together and machine stitch the sides, using a stretch stitch and open seam method. Pin the casing to the bottom edge of the bra, right side together and Overlock.
Measure the front and back necklines and cut the fold-over elastic 10 cm shorter then the circumference of the neckline, or 3/4 of the neckline circumference. Sew the two raw edges of the elastic together to form a circle.
Quarter pin the neckline and the fold-over elastic.
Pin the elastic to the neckline, while matching up the pins. Machine stitch the elastic with a straight stitch, while inserting the fabric into the elastic and stretching front and back. REPEAT THE SAME METHOD FOR THE ARMHOLES.
Measure the under bust area and cut a length of elastic about 8 cm shorter then the circumference of the under bust. Overlap the two raw ends by 1-1,5 cm. Use a zigzag stitch to sew the ends together. Quarter pin the elastic.
Quarter pin the casing. Pin elastic to the casing, matching the pins up.
Machine stitch or overlock the edge of the elastic and the casing together.
Fold the elastic over to the wrong side and pin the edge of the elastic to the edge of the casing and bra seam allowance.
Machine stitch together with a straight stitch, while stretching front and back.
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Have a jolly good week further!
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