Shaped Neckline Facings Tutorial

A facing is a shaped piece of fabric which is used to finish raw edges of a garment neckline, front and back openings and armholes. A shaped facing is cut to the shape of the edge it will finish off. It is usually strengthened by ironing interfacing on and then stitched to the right side of the garment. Facings can also be used as a decorative feature which is finished off on the right side of the garment.

There are different types of facings. Shaped facings are cut separately, using a pattern. Examples are the round and square neckline as illustrated below.

Bias facings are strips of fabric cut on the bias and shaped before sewing it to the garment edge as demonstrated in the tutorial Three Ways To Finish Necklines and Armholes With Bias Binding.

Combined facings are used to finish off the neck and armholes using the same facing as demonstrated in the post How To Sew The All-In-One Neck And Armhole Facing Tutorial.

SEWING THE ROUND NECK FACING

Depending on the style and type of fabric used for a garment, it may be necessary to interface and staystitch the garment neckline and neck facings before attaching the facing to the garment. It is best to examine the fabric beforehand to determine a course of action that will produce the best results.

Cut the garment, facing and interfacing out. Press the interfacing to the wrong side of the facing pieces with a steam iron.

Stitch the facing shoulders right sides together. Press the seams open and overlock the raw edge. Pin the facing to the garment neckline right sides together and machine stitch in place, matching shoulder seams up.

Trim and grade the seam allowance to about 7mm.

Clip into the seam allowance up to the stitching and 1.5cm apart. On tight curves, make clips closer together.

Press the seam allowance towards the facing. Understitch the facing from the right side through the seam allowance and facing. This will prevent the facing from rolling to the front. Turn the facing to wrong side and press.

Hand stitch the edge of the facing to the garment shoulder seam allowance. Complete the garment and press.

SEWING THE SQUARE NECK FACING

The square neckline facing stitching line can first be marked with dressmaker's tracing paper if so desired.

Iron interfacing to the facing pieces. Stitch the shoulder seams of the facing right sides together and overlock raw edges. Press the seams open.

Pin the facing to the garment neckline right sides together. Stitch the facing to the garment, using smaller stitches for 2cm on both sides of each corner as illustrated below.

Trim and clip seam allowance as described for round neck facing. Clip into each corner to just inside the stitching. Press the facing and understitch as described for round neck facing.

TYPES OF INTERFACING

Interfacing is used to strengthen and to give firmness to collars, cuffs and facing. It can be woven or non-woven, iron-on or sew-in. It comes in black, grey and white. Interfacing come in a variety of weights. Always choose interfacing to match your fabric in weight and color. The sew-in type is usually tacked in which makes the iron-on easier to use. The iron-on is fused to the wrong side of facing, using a steam iron. Non-woven interfacing can be cut in any direction and the woven one has a grain and must be cut like we cut fabric.


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