How To Sew Leggings With A Diamond Shaped Gusset

I used Cotton Lycra for my leggings and opted for a lined gusset.  It helps to strengthen the crotch seams, prevents chafing, and allows better ease of movement. For a nice snug fit, it is best to measure the waist, hip, thigh, knee, and ankle first before cutting your fabric panels.


Cotton or Nylon Lycra/Spandex
Waist elastic
Matching sewing thread
Floss sewing thread for the overlocker
Stretch twin needle size 4.0 mm
Rotary cutter or scissors and a cutting mat

6 mm (1/4 in) seam allowance on all seams

Three-thread overlocking
Four-thread overlocking
Straight stitch, length 3


Pre-wash your fabric before cutting.
Cut your pattern pieces out and transfer the marked positions for the gusset from the pattern to the wrong side of the fabric.

Cut the gusset pieces out.

Pin and loosely tack the two gusset panels wrong sides together.  Tack just outside the seam allowance to avoid catching the tacking inside the overlocking stitches.

With right sides together, pin the inner leg seam of one leg and sew using the overlocker and four-thread overlocking, with a stitch length of 2 - 2 1/2. Repeat the same for the other leg.

With right sides together, pin/tack one side of the gusset to the crotch seam of one leg, matching notches up. Sew using the overlocker and four-thread overlocking.

Neaten the overlocking thread ends by pulling it through the overlocking stitching.

Turn the other leg right side out. Slip it into the leg with gusset, right sides together. Matching notches, pin/tack the other half of the gusset to the crotch seam. Pin the rest of the crotch seams together and sew using the overlocker and four-thread overlocking. Neaten the thread ends by pulling it through the stitching, or use a stitch sealant.

Cut elastic to three-quarters of the waist circumference, or as desired. Join the elastic to form a circle and sew using a zigzag stitch.

Quarter pin mark the elastic and the waist opening of the leggings.

Pin the elastic to the wrong side while matching the pins up.

Attach the elastic to the waist with the overlocker and three-thread overlocking. Hold the fabric and elastic at the front and back while overlocking.

Fold the elastic over to the wrong side and pin it in place. Sew on the right side using the sewing machine and the twin stretch needle.

Neaten the hem edges with three-thread overlocking. Turn the hem edges 2 cm under and press lightly. Stitch on the right side using the twin needle.

Have a great day further!

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