How To Make Lined Hollow Sleeves

There are a few ways to make hollow sleeves, but I prefer this method as the end result is always neat.

Gather the following items for the sleeve pattern.
A tracing wheel, paper, pencil, eraser, scissors, french curves and a ruler.

Trace a sleeve pattern to a required length from an existing pattern, or draft your own sleeve pattern. Draw the hollows to a required depth and width as illustrated. I used a width of 7 cm (2 3/4 in) for each hollow/curve and a depth of 1.5 cm (3/4 in) for the centre of the hollow/curve on the fold of fabric.

Cut lining and fabric on fold. Cut the lining about 1 cm (1/2 in) shorter then the sleeve to reduce bulk in the hemline.

Trace facing off if unlined sleeves are required.

Trace the stitching line with dressmaker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel. Place the waxed side of the paper on the wrong side of the fabric and trace the curves of the pattern onto the fabric.

Cut through the centre of the sleeve hollows. Place the button loops on the right side of the fabric and stitch in place.

With right sides together, pin the lining to the sleeve. Set your machine to a smaller stitch and sew on the marked curves. Reverse stitch at the end of each curve.

Clip and trim the seam allowances.

Turn the lining to wrong side and tack the curves/hollows in place. Press.

With right sides together, pin and stitch the sleeve seams. Repeat the same for the lining.

Tack the sleeve hem up and over the lining. Sew the hem using a blind-hemming stitch, while catching the lining with the needle.

Sew the buttons on and press the garment.

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