How To Apply Tape To Shoulder and Neckline Seams

Tape is sometimes sewn into seams, to stabilize it, thus preventing it from stretching. Shoulder seams, waistlines, and neckline seams are mostly taped. It is best to tape seams that take some strain during wear, like the underarm curve of kimono sleeves.

Applying cotton tape to shoulder seams:

Step 1. With right sides together, pin and stitch shoulder seams together.

Step 2. Cut 6 mm cotton tape the length of the shoulder, less seam allowance to avoid bulk. Center the cotton tape over the stitched line, pin, and tack it on the back of the shoulder seam.

Step 3. Stitch with the tape side up, through all layers.

When sewing tape into shoulders of sheer fabrics like mesh, overlock the seam and the tape together for a 5-6 mm finished seam allowance.

Applying tape to a neckline, like knits.

Step 1. Use 6 mm cotton tape, as it shapes easier than other tapes.
Tack the facing to the neckline and machine stitch.

Step 2. Center the tape over the stitched line, on top of the facing. Pin and tack in place.

With tape side up, stitch through all layers.

Applying tape to kimono sleeves:

It is best to reinforce the underarm seam of a kimono sleeve with regular seam binding, or 10-12 mm cotton tape.

Step 1. With right sides together, pin and stitch the shoulder seam together. Press the seam open.

Step 2. Match and pin front and back underarm seamlines. Pin 10-12 mm cotton tape over the curved section of the underarm seamlines, on the back of the garment. Tack the entire seam, catching the tape in.

Step 3. Machine stitch the entire underarm seam, catching the center of the tape. Press the seam flat.

Clip the seam allowance along the underarm curve and press the seam open over a seam roll.

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